| From the Editor's Desk
The secret ingredient of comfort food? Struggle. With pho, Spam, and Hoppin' John, pandemic baking joins a tradition.
These days, pho is everywhere. The steaming bowl of rice noodles in broth is a mainstay on Vietnamese restaurant menus worldwide - comfort food served at corner shops, food trucks, and fancy fusion restaurants. It's a dramatic evolution for a dish that originated out of hunger and struggle.
Pho was created in Hanoi in the early 20th century, when French colonialists craved steak, and the poor masses had to make do with the scraps, says Andrea Nguyen, a prolific Vietnamese cookbook author. Vietnamese butchers had to preserve every speck of meat, so they got creative and served it in noodle soup. "Pho was born out of resourceful cooking, necessity, and scrappy people trying to make a living," Nguyen says.
Pho is just one example of a dish that evolved from harsh necessity to cultural mainstay.
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