Ice Cream Is Good for You  
According to nutritionists, wine will either extend your life or shorten it. Until recently, I was unaware that the same can be said of ice cream. An article in The Atlantic reported on a funny phenomenon: to the surprise, dismay, and—to read between the lines—embarrassment of experts, more than one legitimate scientific study has suggested that the consumption of ice cream might mitigate or even prevent diabetes. And so, depending on how you read the data, a visit to Caleta, a natural-wine bar slash ice-cream parlor in the East Village (131 Ave. A; bar bites and ice cream $5.50-$16), is either an exercise in hedonistic excess or a wellness retreat. Perhaps it’s the same difference when you consider the mental-health potential: by the end of a recent date there, a friend and I were both very, very happy.We started with bar bites, all of them. There was a dish of glossy mixed olives, marinated with piparra peppers in yuzu-kosho olive oil, and a crusty, squishy half of a sourdough baguette, which we ripped into hunks to smear with butter or to sandwich with Comté cheese, housemade blackberry jam, and folds of thinly sliced mortadella arranged like a blooming pink peony. A soft pretzel dressed with mustard and a tin of mussels escabeche (from Minnow, the preserved-fish line by the owners of Cervo’s and Hart’s), served with matzo and more butter, made for a perfect second course. To drink: rosé (providing a dose of resveratrol, a compound found in wine which some believe protects the heart) and Figlia Fiore, a non-alcoholic aperitif made with rose extract, bitter orange rind, and ginseng, among other ingredients.
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